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in: Costumes, Padmé Amidala Naberrie's costumes

Queen Amidala's Senate gown

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Queen Amidala's Senate gown is an elaborate costume worn by Natalie Portman as Queen Amidala in Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace. The Mongolian-inspired ensemble began as concept art by Iain McCaig and was realized by costume designer Trisha Biggar and her costume department, with Ivo Coveney constructing the headdress.

Amidala wore the Senate gown for two scenes set on Coruscant, without the cloak in the first and in full costume for her address to the Galactic Senate regarding the Trade Federation's invasion of Naboo. In- and out-of-universe materials both include gold, velvet, and silk taffeta. The costume consists of four pieces, from top-to-bottom/outermost-to-innermost:

  • the gold-accented escoffiate headdress,
  • a black cloak with peaked shoulders,
  • a dark red top robe, decorated with embroidered rosettes and trimmed with gold lapels and cuffs,
  • and a vibrant orange, pleated underdress with beading and a cascading necklace at the collar.

Costume overview[]

In 1995, artist Iain McCaig began conceptualizing Queen Amidala's costumes, including a design that incorporated a Mongolian hairstyle. As "Queen Amidala's Senate costume" evolved, the hairstyle was retained but the "large, muff sleeves" seen in McCaig's first sketch were toned down. The conceptual version of the headdress was also featured in many of McCaig's storyboards.[9] The finished costume was realized by costume designer Trisha Biggar and her costume department.[5] Other key contributors to the costume included costume props supervisor Ivo Coveney for the headdress,[15] chief hairdresser Sue Love,[16] and chief make-up artist Paul R. A. Engelen.[17]

The costume was worn for two scenes in Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace. Before the Senate hearing, Anakin Skywalker visited Queen Amidala's quarters on Coruscant to say goodbye, intending to address the handmaiden Padmé, but Amidala had already changed personas to be the Queen. In that scene, she wore the headdress, top robe, and pleated underdress without the cloak. When she addressed the Galactic Senate regarding the Trade Federation's illegal blockade and invasion of Naboo, she wore the cloak over the other two clothing layers.[10]

In-universe, it was uncommon for monarchs to address the Senate in their sessions within the large Senate Chamber, and it was crucial that the Senators listen to Queen Amidala. This necessitated a show of dignity and exaggerating her appearance. "The appearance of Amidala in all her glory was calculated to humble the increasingly corrupt Senate"[11][12] yet also pay respect to them.[2] The ensemble expressed the majesty of Naboo and its people,[1][2][13] in part through use of historic symbols.[13] Wearing it helped her stay aloof[1][2][18] and courageous, hide her feelings,[1][18] and remain calm.[2] For cosmetics, she had a red scar of remembrance painted on her lower lip, along with the traditional royal white facepaint and red beauty marks on both cheeks.[1][2] Two Legends books written as Amidala's diaries described the costume as her most regal.[19] In the New Canon, the elaborate gown was also a form of protection: it was blaster resistant, easily removed if need be, and had practical gadgets concealed within jewelry.[n 1][13]

Escoffiate[]

Entertainment Weekly
Is Amidala pleased that she doesn't have to wear the heavy ceremonial garb anymore?
Natalie Portman
[Laughs] Your real question, of course, is 'Were you pleased?'
Entertainment Weekly
You caught me. Were you pleased?
Natalie Portman
It was obviously a relief. It's very hard to concentrate when you're in pain. On the last film, we had one headpiece that had a cord attached to the top and hooked up to a pulley. Someone would walk behind me and pull down to lessen the weight.
— Actress Natalie Portman discusses the costume while promoting Episode II[20]

The in-universe Queen Amidala's Senate gown includes an escoffiate[n 2] headpiece.[1][2][11][12][21] The escoffiate's "hairpiece radiated out from the top of the head in two arches",[11][12] each encircled with golden hairbands and accented at the ends with red and gold "grand finial hairtip ornaments"[1][2] that balance the headdress.[1] The ornamented hairpiece is "fashioned to resemble the horns of a guarlara[n 3] creature"[3] and rests "atop a gold skullcap",[11][12] which has orichalc[n 4] finework suspensas[n 5] framing either side of her face. The Royal Sovereign of Naboo medal is positioned in the center of the arches/horns;[1][2] it's the gold circular ornament resembling a crescent moon with its points joined. Two other elements are readily apparent in costume photographs but not specifically labeled in reference books: an embossed Naboo royal emblem in the center of the skullcap and a smaller "tail" of gold-ringed hair at the back of her head.

The real-world headpiece was Mongolian-inspired.[5] "We felt this headdress was worth the effort, weight and expense of having real gold," said costume designer Trisha Biggar. Real gold was also used to achieve the right quality of color. As with the other headdresses, a cast was taken of Natalie Portman's head in order to build upon it.[8] It was made in copper first using electroforming, then gold-plated[n 7] and decorated with filigree[n 8] details and colored jewels.[5]

The escoffiate ended up being the heaviest of all the Queen's headdresses. Costume prop supervisor Ivo Coveney, who was responsible for its crafting, reflected on it during Episode II production and said: "One of the helmet headdresses I made for Episode I was the one with the pencils hanging down the side. It ended up being very heavy and I know Natalie was uncomfortable. And so that's one of the first things I said to her when I saw her for Episode II is that I would do my best to make things as light as possible for her comfort."[15] Portman previously commented to Starlog, "I wasn't the happiest of people having to wear the Senate costume with the big hairpiece, however."[22]

To help Portman with the weight, the headpiece had a support system.[20][23] Biggar told the anthology MAD About Star Wars it was "hooked up to a pulley made of fishing wire that was looped up through the set's light rigging".[23] Portman described the support as a cord hooked up to a pulley and attached to the top of the headpiece, and someone who walked behind her would pull down to lessen the weight.[20]

Notes displayed in the costume shop portion of the Power of Costume museum exhibit had details of the hair design. The "frame" utilized 30" hair extensions on top and a "jumbo braid" hair extension underneath. Natalie Portman's own hair was "taken into ponytail - crepe hair[n 10] added & bound with gold braid".[24] Basically, what we're seeing is a whole lot of hair that isn't Portman's IRL and isn't Amidala's IU.

Cloak[]

PadmeAmidala-SenateGown-Cloakless

That black cloak covered up so... many... details...!

For the Senate hearing, Amidala wears a long black cloak with exaggerated shoulders, layered over her dark top robe and vibrant dress. The cloak was meant "to remind the Senators of the gravity of the situation on her homeworld" and "set a tone of mourning".[11][12]

The real garment was made out of black faux fur lined with red silk. It has "heavily padded peaked shoulders that were built in the shape of a pyramid".[8]

Top robe[]

With the cloak off, the most visible layer is the top robe, full of details that aren't apparent in the film. The in-universe version is described in great detail:

The crimson top robe hung from the shoulders, with lapels that ran the entire length from neck to toe. These lapels were about 15 centimetres broad [...] They effectively created two golden pillars on which the pale and sombre head of the Queen rested. At the sides, the robe opened in two large, truncated sleeves — each half a metre wide. These were embellished with the same gold [detail] as the lapels, echoing and enhancing the effect of height. The majority of the gown was made of a dark crimson, with occasional embossed rosettes. At the shoulders and the front of the lower areas, a crumpled, petal effect was achieved with the use of a lighter-coloured material.
— Description in "Royal Glory"[11][12]

For the real costume, Biggar used red-shot-green silk[n 12] velvet[n 13] with freehand embroidered motifs; they're described as being made with bronze metallic thread in Dressing a Galaxy,[5] but in a costume featurette, Biggar said they used three or four shades of gold. After the embroidery was complete,[25] the yoke[n 14] of the garment and hem panels were ruched.[n 15] The robe was further accented at the cuffs and collar with orange silk taffeta[n 16] overlaid with gold metallic organza,[n 17] seed pearls,[n 18] and trapunto[n 19] detailing.[5] The embroidery and trapunto took one week for one costume department member to complete.[8] The green aspect of the red-shot-green isn't visible at all in the film or any Star Wars material, but fans have it covered! See the Brooklyn Museum of Art Magic of Myth exhibit photos on The Padawan's Guide to Star Wars Costumes.

Underdress[]

I happened across some rolls of vintage 1930s and '40s fabric originating in France, which I used to create several costumes, including [...] the sunray-pleated underdress in orange shot silk (where different colors of thread are used to weave the warp and the weft) seen in Amidala's [Senate Gown]. The neck of this costume was enhanced by placing layers of gold glass-bead fringing and Victorian bullion-embroidered lace motifs over the yoke area.
— Trisha Biggar, discussing the materials used in the underdress[26]

In-universe, the garment beneath the top robe was described in "Royal Glory" as "a dress of vibrant red" that "hinted at the emotion not evident in the Queen's outer appearance". A "cascading gold necklace" hung from its tall collar and further enhanced the vertical lines of the full look.[11][12]

The real-world underdress was made with orange-shot-gold[n 12] vintage silk taffeta,[n 16][5] a fabric that was seventy years old at the time,[8] from the beginning of the 20th century.[25] The fabric was sunray-pleated,[n 20][5] which was meant to "catch the light of the outfit's colors" when Amidala moved.[8] Only the front of the garment was pleated because the quantity of fabric was too limited to repeat it.[25] The underdress was also decorated at the neck/yoke[n 14] with Victorian bullion-embroidered lace and layers of gold glass-bead fringing.[26] Close-ups can be seen in Dressing a Galaxy on the photos labeled "beaded sleeve detail, opposite" and "trapunto robe facing with dress yoke decoration, far opposite above".[5]

Costume gallery[]

Oops![]

More than one Star Wars reference material messes up details about the costume, which maybe isn't surprising since it's so detailed.

  • Legends & New Canon · A De Agostini feature says, "the Queen entered the chamber wearing a long, black cloak that she then removed to make her address."[11][12] The cloak stays on in the film.[10]
  • Legends & New Canon · "Royal Glory" also say the top robe's lapels are "gold, triple-braided soutache";[n 21] All four Visual Dictionary inclusions make the same mistake in labeling the robe lapels.[1][2] Unless "soutache" means something different in the GFFA, that's not the actual soutache on the costume. The braiding above the ruched hem panel is gold, triple-braided soutache. The detailing on the lapels and cuffs is trapunto.[n 19][5]
  • New Canon · Star Wars 100 Objects erroneously says the costume has a "red-shot-green cloak" (in-universe)[4] despite the cloak being black. The top robe is red-shot-green silk velvet.[5]
  • New Canon · In another error involving the top robe, The Visual Encyclopedia labels a detail close-up from the top robe as "Orange-shot gold silk taffeta" (in-universe),[3] which seems to be a mix-up with the real world underdress being made of orange-shot-gold vintage silk taffeta.[5]
  • Real World · The underdress's material was mistakenly described on StarWars.com as "orange short [sic] silk with a green weave" instead of shot silk—also, where's the green? (That'd be in the top robe.)[8]
  • Real World · Trisha Biggar's own essay "Sourcing: The Fabric of Our Lives" misattributed the sunray-pleated underdress to being part of "Amidala's Throne Room Costume".[26]

Fan resources[]

Notes[]

  1. ↑ The blaster resistance, gadget-concealing jewelry, and easy-removal elements were likely inspired by another book released in the same year, Queen's Shadow by E. K. Johnston, which elaborated upon how Padme Amidala's wardrobe as Queen could be practical while looking like it was anything but.
  2. ↑ The term "escoffiate" was invented for Star Wars: Episode I The Visual Dictionary and has only been applied to this specific headpiece. Official materials have never detailed what distinguishes an escoffiate from Queen Amidala's (or anyone else's) other headdresses. Mongolian headdresses inspired the appearance, but Zeen Mrala points out that "escoffiate" may be a fictionalized adjective form or space version of "escoffion", a type of medieval European headdress that divided hair or fabric into two horns on either side of the head.
  3. ↑ Although the guarlara resemblance is not explained or pictured, Terryl Whitlatch's illustrations for the Legends book The Wildlife of Star Wars: A Field Guide include a guarlara in "full ceremonial dress" with ornaments dangling from the ends of its two horns. The grand finial hairtip ornaments resemble these decorated horns.
  4. ↑ "Orichalc" is likely derived from the real-world "orichalcum"/"aurichalcum", a word used in ancient writings for some sort of gold-colored metal or alloy.
  5. ↑ The term "suspensa" is another invented for Star Wars: Episode I The Visual Dictionary and is applied to this and other costumes from Episode I and later Episode III. Based on context, it refers to suspended ornaments. These particular suspensas are described as "long, gold braids" in "Royal Glory", which was originally printed in The Official Star Wars Fact File #110.
  6. ↑ 6.00 6.01 6.02 6.03 6.04 6.05 6.06 6.07 6.08 6.09 6.10 The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion by Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis Tortora. Published 2003 by Laurence King Publishing. Third Edition; change of publisher and title from first two editions as Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion.
  7. ↑ Gold-plated: "Describing jewelry with a thin surface of gold electrolytically plated to a base metal."[n 6] (Copper is a base metal.)
  8. ↑ Filigree: "Ornamental metalwork for jewelry or accessories made of fine silver, gold, or copper wire intricately arranged—or similar pierced metal openwork."[n 6]
  9. ↑ Special Effects Make-up by Janus Vinther. Published 2002 by A & C Black.
  10. ↑ "Crepe hair, also called crepe wool hair, is used for artificial beards and hair. It is usually sold in small plaits tied with string and comes in many different colours. The hair fibres are 2-3 cm long and stick to each other because they have microscopic barbs: real hairs are not barbed in this way, but display a palm-like structure when viewed through a microscope. Crepe wool hair is naturally fuzzy but can be straightened by ironing the hair through a damp cloth or by scalding it in hot water."[n 9]
  11. ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion by Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta. Published 1988 by Fairchild Publications. Second Edition
  12. ↑ 12.0 12.1 Two terms:
    • Shot cloth: "Term for fabrics woven with different colored yarns in warp and filling which achieve a changeable or iridescent effect when held in the light. May be made of silk, rayon, or man-made fibers."[n 11]
    • Changeable effect: "An iridescent effect in fabric that is achieved by using lengthwise and crosswise yarns dyed different colors. Usually made in silk or lustrous manufactured fibers in fabrics such as taffeta to achieve the most dramatic effect."[n 6]
  13. ↑ Velvet: "A fabric with a short, closely woven pile created from extra lengthwise yarns. Usually the pile is cut to create a soft, rich texture, but sometimes patterns are created by cutting some of the pile yarns and not others. Used for dressy clothing and evening wear."[n 6]
  14. ↑ 14.0 14.1 Yoke: "Portion of garment fitted across the shoulders in front or back or both to which the lower front and back sections are attached. This piece is sometimes lined."[n 6]
  15. ↑ Ruching: "1. Trimming made by pleating a strip of lace, ribbon, net, fine muslin, or silk so that it ruffles on both sides. Made by stitching through the center of pleating. Also spelled rouche, ruche. 2. Contemporary usage also applies the term to clothing with large rippled areas formed by gathers."[n 6]
  16. ↑ 16.0 16.1 Taffeta: "Crisp fabric with a fine, smooth surface made in the plain weave with a small crosswise rib. Originally made in silk, now made in manufactured filament fibers."[n 6]
  17. ↑ Organza: "Lightweight, thin, transparent fabric that is stiff and wiry. Made in the plain weave of manufactured filament or silk yarns, this fabric has a tendency to crush, but is easy to press. Used for dresses, millinery, trimmings, neckwear, and blouses."[n 6]
  18. ↑ Seed pearls: "Tiny, irregular-shaped real pearls. Formerly used in necklaces, now used primarily for embroidery on sweaters or wedding dresses."[n 6]
  19. ↑ 19.0 19.1 Trapunto: "Type of quilting in which design is outlined and then stuffed from the back of the fabric to achieve a raised or embossed effect."[n 6]
  20. ↑ Sunray, aka accordion pleats: "Pressed in pleats, sometimes heat-set, small at top but larger at bottom. Lower edge of hem shows a zigzag pattern."[n 11] / "Folds in fabrics that are named for their resemblance to the folds of the musical instrument called an accordion."[n 6] Aka sunburst pleats and fan pleats.
  21. ↑ Soutache braid: "(soo-tash) Narrow flat decorative braid of mohair, silk, or rayon. Used for borders and for allover ornamental patterns. Also called Russian braid."[n 11]

References[]

  1. ↑ 1.00 1.01 1.02 1.03 1.04 1.05 1.06 1.07 1.08 1.09 1.10 1.11 1.12 1.13 1.14 1.15 1.16 Legends · Star Wars: Episode I: The Visual Dictionary, "Queen Amidala", by David West Reynolds. Published 1999 by DK Publishing. Content reprinted in Star Wars: The Complete Visual Dictionary (2006) and Star Wars: The Phantom Menace: The Expanded Visual Dictionary (2012)
  2. ↑ 2.00 2.01 2.02 2.03 2.04 2.05 2.06 2.07 2.08 2.09 2.10 2.11 2.12 2.13 2.14 2.15 2.16 New Canon · Star Wars: The Complete Visual Dictionary, New Edition, "The Prequel Trilogy Era" — "Queen Amidala", by Pablo Hidalgo and David West Reynolds. Published 2018 by DK Publishing.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 New Canon · Star Wars: The Visual Encyclopedia, "Culture" — "Royal Outfits", by Adam Bray, Cole Horton, and Tricia Barr. Published 2017 by DK Publishing.
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 New Canon · Star Wars 100 Objects, "Queen Amidala's Senatorial Gown", by Kristin Baver. Published 2023 by DK.
  5. ↑ 5.00 5.01 5.02 5.03 5.04 5.05 5.06 5.07 5.08 5.09 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 5.14 5.15 5.16 Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Chapter Two: Royalty", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
  6. ↑ Real World · "All Costumes" by Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service on Rebel, Jedi, Princess, Queen: Star Wars™ and the Power of Costume. Published 2017. (original link down; URL was: <http://www.powerofcostume.si.edu/allCostumes.html>) (Archived on 2023-02-06)
  7. ↑ Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Costume Index", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
  8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 8.8 Real World · "Production Notes: Costume Design" on StarWars.com — Episode I. Published 1999-05-01. (original link down; URL was: <http://www.starwars.com/episode-i/features/production/costume.html>) (Archived on 2001-02-10)
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 9.2 Real World · The Art of Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace by Jonathan Bresman. Published 1999 by Del Rey.
  10. ↑ 10.0 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 Legends & New Canon · Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace
  11. ↑ 11.00 11.01 11.02 11.03 11.04 11.05 11.06 11.07 11.08 11.09 11.10 11.11 11.12 11.13 11.14 11.15 11.16 Legends · The Official Star Wars Fact File, Issue 110, Weapon & Technology: Garments and couture (GAR9) — "Royal Glory". Published 2004 by De Agostini (original series).
  12. ↑ 12.00 12.01 12.02 12.03 12.04 12.05 12.06 12.07 12.08 12.09 12.10 12.11 12.12 12.13 12.14 12.15 12.16 New Canon · Padmé Amidala, "Royal Glory" in the series Star Wars Encyclopedia. Published 2021 by De Agostini. Content reprinted from Fact File Issue 110 (note: exact words/phrases may or may not be present in each specific translation into English, Spanish, and/or French).
  13. ↑ 13.0 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 New Canon · Ultimate Star Wars, New Edition, "Characters and Creatures: Padmé Amidala", by Adam Bray, Cole Horton, Patricia Barr, Daniel Wallace, Ryder Windham and Matt Jones. Published 2019 by Dorling Kindersley. Crafted couture: "Queen Amidala's gown is covered with historic symbols that express the majesty of the free people of Naboo. Her elaborate gown also serves to protect her, as it is blaster resistant and can be easily shed if required. Much of her jewelry conceals useful, hidden gadgets."
  14. ↑ Legends · Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace by Terry Brooks. Published 1999 by Del Rey. Film novelization
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 15.2 Real World · "Not Costumes, Not Props - Ivo Coveney's Costume Props" on <starwars.com>. Published 2001-08-21. (original link down; URL was: <https://www.starwars.com/episode-ii/feature/20010821/index.html>) (Archived on 2004-08-11)
  16. ↑ Real World · "Looks Are Everything - Part II" (page 2 of 2) on <starwars.com>. Published 1999-07-01. (original link down; URL was: <https://www.starwars.com/episode-i/feature/19990701/indexp2.html>) (Archived on 2004-07-01)
  17. ↑ Real World · "Looks Are Everything - Part I" (page 2 of 3) on <starwars.com>. Published 1999-05-13. (original link down; URL was: <https://www.starwars.com/episode-i/feature/19990513/indexp2.html>) (Archived on 2004-08-04)
  18. ↑ 18.0 18.1 New Canon · Ultimate Star Wars, "Characters and Creatures: Padmé Amidala", by Patricia Barr, Adam Bray, Daniel Wallace, and Ryder Windham. Published 2015 by Dorling Kindersley. Regal persona: "Queen Amidala's makeup and gown are covered with historic symbols that express the majesty of the free people of Naboo. Her elaborate costume also serves to hide her feelings and help her stay courageous and aloof."
  19. ↑ The two diaries:
    • Legends · Star Wars Episode I Journal: Queen Amidala by Jude Watson. Published 1999 by Scholastic.
    • Legends · Star Wars Episode I: I Am a Queen by Alice Alfonsi. Published 2000 by Random House.
  20. ↑ 20.0 20.1 20.2 Real World · Entertainment Weekly, issue #648, "Talking With Natalie Portman", by Jeff Jensen. Published 2002-04-12. (web archive)
  21. ↑ New Canon · Star Wars: The Visual Encyclopedia, "Culture" — "Accessories", by Adam Bray, Cole Horton, and Tricia Barr. Published 2017 by DK Publishing.
  22. ↑ Real World · Starlog, #270, "Queen Amidala Rules" (in table of contents) or "Regal Daring" (on article), by Ian Spelling. Published January 2000.
  23. ↑ 23.0 23.1 Real World · MAD About Star Wars, page 82, by Jonathan Bresman. Published 2007 by Del Rey. "HOISTING THE HEADDRESS: According to costume designer Trisha Biggar, this headdress had to be hooked up to a pulley made of fishing wire that was looped up through the set's light rigging to help Natalie Portman support the weight. Inside your own Donald Trump gag here." Sidebar to reprint of "Star Bores: Episode Load I The Fandumb Megamess" from MAD #385, September 1999. Photograph caption: "The heavy headdress."
  24. ↑ Real World · From the museum exhibit Rebel, Jedi, Princess, Queen: Star Wars™ and the Power of Costume, via photograph by Cynthia Settje on 2017-01-28 at the Denver Art Museum. Transcription by Queen Amiadala:

    NATALIE PORTMAN - Queen Amidala

    Senate

    Frame:
    Underneath
    Hairaisers Jumbo Braid
    Col: 8.
    Top
    American Dream
    Silky St. Weft
    30"
    Col: 6.

    Own hair taken into
    ponytail - crepe hair
    added & bound with
    gold braid.

  25. ↑ 25.0 25.1 25.2 Real World · Star Wars: The Complete Saga (Blu-ray box set), "Queen Amidala Senate Costume" (featurette). Released 2011.
  26. ↑ 26.0 26.1 26.2 Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Chapter Six: Padmé's Journey", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
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