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in: Costumes, Padmé Amidala Naberrie's costumes

Queen Amidala's black travel gown

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Travel Dress #1. The handwoven spiderweb-lace panel that trims the front took more than a month to make; the discharge-printed motif on the velvet overdress was inspired by Art Nouveau forms. The feather-crested headdress has enameled plaques on the sides.
— Description in Vogue[23]

Queen Amidala's black travel gown is a costume worn by Keira Knightley as Sabé when posing as Queen Amidala in Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace. Natalie Portman wore it for continuity and promotional photographs but never in the film itself. It was conceptualized by artist Iain McCaig and crafted by costume designer Trisha Biggar and her costume department.

Costume overview[]

The design process was at times frustrating, and in one instance, McCaig began angrily scribbling over his work. Just as he was about to crumple up the paper and throw it away, he realized he liked the pattern he subconsciously had doodled. Lucas liked it as well, and ultimately, the costume was worn by Sabé, the Queen's decoy.
— An angry doodle leads to gorgeous costuming[22]

The Art of book describes how Iain McCaig began this costume's design with angry scribbling that "subconsciously" produced a pattern he and George Lucas both liked.[22][n 6] The concept art piece seen in that book was dated "12 · 22 · 95" (December 22, 1995).[24] The costume was fully conceptualized by August 28, 1997; in the "Costume Drama" featurette from Lynne's Diary, we can see Lucas with the concept art on that date.[25]

Sabé is the Royal Decoy during Padmé Amidala Naberrie's time as Queen of Naboo. For most of Sabé's screen time in The Phantom Menace, she wears this costume. Queen Amidala starts in her throne room gown for multiple scenes before the Trade Federation enters Theed Royal Palace. When "the Queen" next appears to descend the palace stairs, she is actually Sabé and is surrounded by handmaidens in flame-colored robes, including Padmé pretending to be one of them. Sabé continues to pose as the Queen in this costume while in the starship's throne room and through the party's landing on Coruscant.[13] In the screenplay, all scenes with this costume use the name Queen Amidala/Amidala for Sabé's stage directions and lines.[26]

In-universe, Sabé wears these "dark robes of mourning" to symbolize how the Queen feels about "the sorrowful events occurring on her planet". They maintain the Queen's dignity and that of her people while also giving her an "intimidating" appearance. The costume is intended to be a "clear message of disgust at the Trade Federation's violation of Naboo" and reminder to its leaders of the "seriousness of their offenses".[14][15][16]

Headdress[]

The headdress is summed up by its labels in the Legends Visual Dictionary as "Feather headdress" with "Gemstone and filigree ear covering".[11] The components, some of which are visually observed rather than described in written sources, are:

  • A black fabric wrap (a "balaclava"[14] or "wimple")[15][16] with scattered red gemstones covers Sabé's hair.
  • On her forehead, she has a diadem in "the royal colours (scarlet and gold)".[14][15][16] Not explicitly discussed but visually apparent: the diadem has equal-sized red gemstones connected with gold links, surrounding a central gold medallion that's upside-down-teardrop–shaped and has three gemstones in a vertical line.
  • On either side of her face, she has two ornate, "half-egg"–shaped earpieces in gold and scarlet.[14][15][16] These are also called "crespines or cauls".[15][16]
  • At the back of her head, she has a "fan of large black feathers"[14][15][16] that lends "height and flow to her movements".[18]
The left-most girl in profile wears black, gold, and red, and the other four are in hooded robes of vibrant red and orange.

"Either choice presents great danger... to us all." From left-to-right: Sabé, Rabé, Saché, Padmé, and Yané

Dress[]

It's completely handmade. So you start with a sheet of almost clear—it's like a cellophane. You do your design on it, and when you finish that, you stick it in water, and the clear fabric disappears, leaving the lace. So this fabric took someone probably a month to make, working at it continually.
— Costume designer Trisha Biggar describes how the lace was made[27]

After the final shape of the dress was fitted and determined, the lace was made. The pattern pieces were cut out in fabric that Trisha Biggar described as "dissolvable (a transparent material that vanishes when put into water)"[6] and compared to cellophane.[n 7] The freehand design used dozens of reels of thread[6] to create a "spider-web type of fabric". One person worked on this for ten hours a day, five days a week, for over a month. The stitched fabric was then placed in water to remove the backing and leave behind the lace. The dress panels were then stitched onto each other without any seams.[7]

In-universe, the lace is part of a "lace-work dress with a web-like design on the front", worn over a lighter-colored undergarment.[14] The design is described as "a subtle indication of the web of evil that was being spun around the young ruler."[15][16]

Maggie offers these fabric details not described in the official sources, which focused on the lace: "This costume is so interesting -the little cones or peaks we see in the fabric look to have been almost molded that way. The fabric looks almost like a knit, rather than a velvet. The peaks are perhaps an inch to 2 inches long."[28] Cosplayer Dawn Bright concurs: "I bought three different materials before finally realizing exactly how this material was crafted. Long story short its an extremely thin knit poly blend (NO the jacket is NOT Velvet, not in anyway shape or form)."[29]

The portion with the peaks/cones has a vintage jet-beaded[n 5] back panel. Dressing a Galaxy has a close-up detail photograph,[5] but to really see the fabrics and the panel, check out fan photographs. The fabric with peaks/cones is layered over above[30] what the Power of Costume museum placard calls a "velvet overdress". At the base of this velvet overdress[10] are motifs inspired by Art Nouveau forms[10][23] and discharge-printed[n 8][23] onto the fabric. The motifs are gold Naboo royal emblems. Large emblems are in a vertical line down towards the hem, smaller emblems form a trim circling around the hem, and two more large emblems frame where the black fabric splits to show off the handmade lace. (This is all visible but not specifically described in written sources.)

Some descriptions of the costume make it sound like the headdress isn't the only part with feathers. The junior novelization descriptions: "Sabé wore the white face paint and the black feathered gown and headdress of the Queen"[31] and "In the center of the group stood a girl, dressed in an elaborately feathered black costume and wearing royal face paint. She had to be the young Queen of Naboo."[32] However, the feathers are only on the headdress.

Further appearances[]

In Legends[]

On the left, a girl in profile wears black, gold, and red. She looks up in surprise at a brunette who is wearing vibrant orange and holding a black and gold necklace towards the other girl.

The criss-crossing gold on the amulet goes well with the filigree on headdress's earpieces.

Two Legends tie-in books for young readers, The Queen's Amulet[17] and Episode I Journal: Queen Amidala[33] add a scene with the black travel gown, set in-between Amidala standing at the palace window and Sabé's first on-screen appearance. In the Queen's private chambers, both girls change their appearances.[17][33] Sabé puts on "one of Amidala's ceremonial gowns" and makeup (which includes the scar of remembrance, not named in this scene).[17] Sabé initially refuses to accept Padmé Naberrie's amulet[17][33] but Padmé fastens it around Sabé's neck anyway.[17] There isn't an illustration of her wearing the amulet as part of this costume, probably because it doesn't exist in the film.

The Legends-only film novelization by Terry Brooks includes an extra scene in which Nute Gunray, Rune Haako, and their accompanying battle droids enter the throne room and encounter Sabé as the Queen. In a difference from the film, her line "I will not cooperate" is delivered when she stands up from the throne[21] instead of while descending the staircase.[13]

The Queen sat upon her throne, surrounded by her handmaidens. She was serene and aloof, detached from everything, as if what was taking place had no effect on her, could not touch her in any way. She wore black, her white-painted face in sharp contrast to the black feathered headdress that wrapped and framed it. A gold chain lay across her regal brow and the red beauty mark split her lower lip. She was considered beautiful, Gunray had been told, but he had no sense of human beauty and by Neimoidian standards she was simply colorless and small-featured.
— From Sabé's first novelization scene[21]

In New Canon[]

Padmé crouched beside her, fixing some wrinkle in the hem of the voluminous black dress.

"We will do this," she said, so softly that Sabé barely heard her. Sabé reached down, and Padmé took her hand and squeezed it. "This dress has enough Karlini silk woven into it to protect you and anyone standing behind you in a firefight, and you know that's only the beginning. Naboo resists in its own way. Your people are with you, Your Highness. We are ready."

They were comforting words, and Sabé could easily imagine saying them herself, except she would never let her queen face such a dangerous situation, no matter what protections were woven into her robes.

— Before Sabé appears in the film[19]

In a prologue set just prior to Sabé's first on-screen appearance, fellow handmaidens Rabé, Saché, and Yané hurriedly assist her with her makeup, hair, and clothes in the queen's dressing room. Eirtaé asks Sabé where she wants to be for the arrival of the Trade Federation. Sabé asks if they can make it to the throne room, but they can't; Yané suggests remaining in the dressing room could make their enemies underestimate them. As Queen Amidala, Sabé declares they will wait out on the terrace with Captain Panaka and any other guards that arrive. Padmé quietly reassures Sabé and they hold hands before the battle droids arrive.[19]

Costume gallery[]

Oops![]

  • Episode I Journal: Queen Amidala says that "I brought out an impressive cloak with black feathers and Sabé slipped it on. Perfect."[33] This costume does not include a cloak.
  • De Agostini's coverage of this costume says "the only symbols of royalty" were the makeup, diadem, earpieces, and use of royal colors.[14][15][16] This misses the very obvious royal symbols all over the skirt.

Fan resources[]

Notes[]

  1. ↑ Although presented as an in-universe name, "traveling gown" is not unique to this costume. The same page spread also uses it for a purple one. That's part of why this wiki article's name is instead based on travel gown instead of traveling.
  2. ↑ I = Roman numeral one, not the letter.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 Fan-created nickname
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion by Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis Tortora. Published 2003 by Laurence King Publishing. Third Edition; change of publisher and title from first two editions as Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion.
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 Jet: "An opaque mineral made largely of carbon, a variety of lignite or coal, which polishes easily. Comes from England, Spain, France, and the United States. Black varieties of quartz, obsidian, and glass also masquerade as this mineral. All were used for pins, earrings, and beads in mourning jewelry during the Victorian era."[n 4]
  6. ↑ Iain McCaig's scribbled pattern presumably inspired the handmade lace.
  7. ↑ Cellophane: "Generic name, once a trademark, for thin transparent film made of acetate. Used in ribbon-sized strips to cover paper fibers imitating straw or used alone as synthetic straw for hats, handbags, etc."[n 4] Trisha Biggar did not identify the material that was like cellophane in that featurette.
  8. ↑ Discharge print: "Design made on piece-dyed fabric by applying with copper rollers chemicals that dissolve and remove the dye in the design area. A white polka-dot design on a navy ground can be made in this manner."[n 4]

References[]

  1. ↑ New Canon · Star Wars: The Visual Encyclopedia, "Culture" — "Royal Outfits", by Adam Bray, Cole Horton, and Tricia Barr. Published 2017 by DK Publishing.
  2. ↑ Queen Amidala in Black Travel Gown, 1999 Portrait Edition series of dolls. Released by Hasbro.
    This finely crafted Portrait Edition doll lets you savor the magic of a special Star Wars: Episode I movie moment. It is faithfully replicated and vividly brought to life through detailed sculpting, rich fabric attire and choice accessories. Queen Amidala wears a textured-velvet ebony robe with golden tricot bodice yoke, sleeves and skirt that features an ebony lace overlay. Her hood is satin finish tricot, complete with feathers, red "gemstones," and filigree ear coverings. In her black travel gown, Queen Amidala is the embodiment of regal elegance, energy and determination.
    — Description on box
  3. ↑ Real World · Star Wars Insider, issue #75, "Appearing Knightley", by Gabriela Tscharner-Patao. Published 2004.
  4. ↑ Real World · Star Wars Chronicles: The Prequels, Chapter 1, "Episode I: The Phantom Menace", by Stephen J. Sansweet and Pablo Hidalgo. Published 2005 by Chronicle Books.
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Chapter Two: Royalty", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Chapter Six: Padmé's Journey — "Sourcing: The Fabric of Our Lives"", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 Real World · "Production Notes: Costume Design" on StarWars.com — Episode I. Published 1999-05-01. (original link down; URL was: <http://www.starwars.com/episode-i/features/production/costume.html>) (Archived on 2001-02-10)
  8. ↑ Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Costume Index", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
  9. ↑ Real World · "All Costumes" by Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service on Rebel, Jedi, Princess, Queen: Star Wars™ and the Power of Costume. Published 2017. (original link down; URL was: <http://www.powerofcostume.si.edu/allCostumes.html>) (Archived on 2023-02-06)
  10. ↑ 10.0 10.1 10.2 Real World · Rebel, Jedi, Princess, Queen: Star Wars™ and the Power of Costume. Exhibited 2015–2018. Produced by the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service and the Lucas Museum of Narrative Art in consultation with Lucasfilm Ltd.

    QUEEN AMIDALA Naboo Escape Gown, 1999 Episode I: The Phantom Menace Handmade lace and vintage jet (gemstone) beads

    The spiderweb lace that trims the front of this costume took more than a month to weave by hand. Art Nouveau forms inspired the motif at the base of the velvet overdress.

    — Placard for costume
  11. ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 11.3 Legends · Star Wars: Episode I: The Visual Dictionary, "The Queen's Handmaidens", by David West Reynolds. Published 1999 by DK Publishing. Content reprinted in Star Wars: The Complete Visual Dictionary (2006) and Star Wars: The Phantom Menace: The Expanded Visual Dictionary (2012)
  12. ↑ New Canon · Star Wars: The Complete Visual Dictionary, New Edition, "The Prequel Trilogy Era" — "Queen Amidala's Handmaidens", by Pablo Hidalgo and David West Reynolds. Published 2018 by DK Publishing.
  13. ↑ 13.0 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 13.5 13.6 13.7 Legends & New Canon · Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace
  14. ↑ 14.0 14.1 14.2 14.3 14.4 14.5 14.6 14.7 14.8 Legends · The Official Star Wars Fact File, Issue 104, Weapons & Technology: Garments and couture (GAR8) — "Exiled Splendour". Published 2004 by De Agostini (original series).
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 15.2 15.3 15.4 15.5 15.6 15.7 15.8 15.9 Legends · The Official Star Wars Fact File, Part 29, Weapons & Technology: Naboo royal garments (GAR3-4) — "Naboo Royal Garments". Published 2014 by De Agostini (relaunched series).
  16. ↑ 16.0 16.1 16.2 16.3 16.4 16.5 16.6 16.7 16.8 16.9 New Canon · Padmé Amidala in the series Star Wars Encyclopedia. Published 2021 by De Agostini. Content reprinted from The Official Star Wars Fact File Part 29 (relaunch), some of which was reprinted from Issue 104 (original run) (note: exact words/phrases may or may not be present in each specific translation into English, Spanish, and/or French).
  17. ↑ 17.0 17.1 17.2 17.3 17.4 17.5 Legends · The Queen's Amulet by Julianne Balmain. Published 1999 by Chronicle Books. Illustrated by Matilda Harrison
  18. ↑ 18.0 18.1 Legends · Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace, chapter 16, by Terry Brooks.
  19. ↑ 19.0 19.1 19.2 19.3 New Canon · Queen's Shadow, Prologue, by E. K. Johnston in the series Queen's Series. Published 2019 by Disney • Lucasfilm Press.
  20. ↑ New Canon · Queen's Shadow, Chapter 8, by E. K. Johnston.
  21. ↑ 21.0 21.1 21.2 Legends · Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace, chapter 7, by Terry Brooks. Published 1999 by Del Rey. Film novelization
  22. ↑ 22.0 22.1 22.2 Real World · The Art of Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace, "Naboo: The City of Theed", by Jonathan Bresman. Published 1999 by Del Rey.
  23. ↑ 23.0 23.1 23.2 23.3 23.4 23.5 Real World · Vogue, "Star Wars Couture", by Hamish Bowles. Published April 1999. Photographed by Irving Penn; model Audrey Marnay.
  24. ↑ Real World · Rebel, Jedi, Princess, Queen: Star Wars™ and the Power of Costume. Exhibited 2015–2018. Produced by the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service and the Lucas Museum of Narrative Art in consultation with Lucasfilm Ltd. Artwork by Iain McCaig.

    Photograph consulted: "IMG_7726" by Cynthia Settje on Star Wars: The Power of Costume. Published 2017-01-28. ("Tell me you have a backup plan."—Jyn Erso)
  25. ↑ Real World · "Lynne's Diary Part 10: Costume Drama" (article and video) on <starwars.com>. Published 1999-04-08. Archived link is article-only, not the video; this live link is video-only, not the article (original link down; URL was: <https://www.starwars.com/episode-i/video/lynne/lynne10.html>) (Archived on 2004-08-04)
  26. ↑ Real World · Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace: Illustrated Screenplay by George Lucas. Published 1999 by Del Rey.
  27. ↑ Real World · Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace, DVD disc 2: "Costumes" (featurette). Released 2001.
  28. ↑ Fansite · "Black Invasion Costume: Making Of" by Maggie on The Padawan's Guide to Star Wars Costumes. (Archived on 2024-10-08)
  29. ↑ Fansite · "Queen Amidala Sabe Black Invasion Gown" by Dawn Bright on On Blogspot. Published 2013-04-10. (Archived on 2024-07-14)
  30. ↑ Fansite · "Black Invasion Costume: Exhibit Photos" by Maggie on The Padawan's Guide to Star Wars Costumes. (Archived on 2024-10-08)
  31. ↑ Legends · Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace, chapter 4, by Patricia C. Wrede. Published 1999 by Scholastic. Junior film novelization
  32. ↑ Legends · Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace, chapter 5, by Patricia C. Wrede.
  33. ↑ 33.0 33.1 33.2 33.3 Legends · Star Wars Episode I Journal: Queen Amidala, "Entry 2: Invasion", by Jude Watson. Published 1999 by Scholastic.
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