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Queen Amidala's throne room gown

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Queen Amidala's throne room gown is one of the most famous costumes worn by Natalie Portman as Queen Amidala in Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace. It was conceptualized by Iain McCaig and the finished costume was made by Trisha Biggar and her costume department.

The throne room gown is worn throughout Amidala's first scenes. She communicates with the Trade Federation from her throne room before consulting her assembled advisors, and she stands alone and pensive at the palace windows. The throne room gown has three parts:

  • a gold headpiece with a skullcap and faceframes,
  • wide shoulders/collar piece with an embroidered stole hanging in front, trimmed in dark brown fur,
  • and a crimson dress with lights above the flared hem.

Costume overview[]

[...] I was doing this costume, and I thought, 'Oh, my God, she should have plant forms!' So I put all these seed pods down at the bottom of her costume and colored them up, left them bright for some reason. When George was looking at it, he goes, 'Iain, what are those?' You think on your feet, and I went, 'Oh, they're lights, George!' He said, 'Oh. Won't that be kind of heavy, down there at the bottom of the dress?' 'Oh, no, they're very light lights, George!' I quickly called ILM and went, 'Help! There are these lights down at the bottom and they've gotta be really light and I don't know how to do this!' Bless their heart, they made one.
— Iain McCaig, in retrospect[18]

This costume is almost universally named as the throne room gown (although in varying capitalizations, with or without hyphenating between throne and room).[1][2][3][5][6][7] Iain McCaig finalized his conceptual design for it by March 13, 1997.[18] A concept art caption described: "According to [Iain] McCaig, when he decided to incorporate some lanterns into the hem of Amidala's palace dress, [George] Lucas rolled his eyes and made McCaig draw up schematics of how it would actually work. McCaig rose to the occasion, and the dress was ultimately approved."[19] The artist later elaborated, "This design happened right as the idea of 'Space Nouveau' took hold," when he was incorporating plant forms into designs for the Queen. He had drawn brightly colored seed pods at the bottom of a dress, but told Lucas they were lightweight lights.[18]

Trisha Biggar cited Chinese Imperial court styles as the cultural and historical influences and wrote that it was "perhaps one of the most complex costumes" that she and her costume department created.[5] The costume cost $60,000 (1990s USD) in materials and labor.[8] Their work of nearly eight weeks began with designing a custom undergarment, the shape of which Biggar likened to an upside-down ice cream cone. To maintain a rigid shape and support the weight of the gown's fabric, the undergarment had multiple canvas panels reinforced at the hem with rings of crinoline[n 4] steel.[5] The undergarment and the dress's multiple layers also supported the weight of several lights and wires that ran to their power source (variously described as "batteries",[20] a "battery on wheels",[7] and a "car battery" that had to be straddled).[21]

The costume's crimson color is called "a traditional signifier of royal authority" for Naboo, while the overall look gives an impression of "unbounded majesty, combined with strength and honesty."[13] The Visual Dictionary descriptions of the costume differ by continuity:

  • Legends · "Her extremely formal appearance in the palace throne room helps her project an unwaveringly professional image and warns others not to dismiss her abilities."[1]
  • New Canon · "Her throne room gown is among the most lavish, designed to delight and impress visiting dignitaries from other worlds."[2]

Headpiece[]

PadmeAmidala-Eirtae-ThroneRoom

Queen Amidala sits on her throne with handmaiden Eirtaé at her side. Notice the white manicure, not just thumbnails!

The headdress has "blade-shaped side panels" with a vintage red lace overlay and intricate gold work. The top is a "Chinese-inspired centerpiece".[17] Naergi recognized and identified the carved ball ornament as a wooden or cinnabar bead with a Chinese "longevity" character.[22]

In-universe, this is described as "the most sophisticated part of the ensemble". It has a gold skullcap on top of her head with "exaggerated collars" on either side,[13] elsewhere labeled gold faceframes. The red Jewel of Zenda,[n 5][1][2] called "famous", rests on her forehead. The hair "carefully combed out to form a dark halo around her head"[13] was sculpted over a padded form.[1][2] Reference materials don't specifically label or mention that the hair includes several gathered tails extending the length of her back.

Collar/shoulders[]

We're going to struggle with the terminology here:

  • Dressing a Galaxy refers to "the collar" and "hanging center-front piece" of the costume.[5]
  • The Legends Visual Dictionary series puts the label "Wide shoulders make Amidala seem larger".[1]
  • Then there's the "crimson stole hung from the front, adorned with intricate gold filigree".[13]
  • Or maybe it's an "elaborate tabard that covered her shoulders and chest."[16]

So, we're very unsure of what to call this part of the costume, so bear with the clunky writing.

The New Canon material is red silk with gold embroidered motifs[3] that were hand-stitched.[1][2] The dark brown(?) trim is shed potolli fur;[n 6][1][2] IRL it was faux fur, not real fur.[5] The Legends diary I Am a Queen draws a line to the embroidery and labels it "Ancient Naboo Royal crest",[23] but it's very unclear which of the many shapes and forms is meant to go with that label.

Gown[]

The main garment is described as being "somewhat plainer" in comparison to other royal gowns, "with straight hems emphasizing the Queen's direct approach to diplomacy."[13] New Canon described it as "the most wearable dress she had that was suitably regal".[16] Its sleeves and hem are trimmed with shed potolli fur, like the collar/shoulders.[1][2] The Legends VDs said Amidala's feet were hidden by the "wide gown flare",[1] modified in the New Canon to say its hem was fitted to a circular frame.[2] The lights in the skirt are sein jewels,[1][2] containing plasma gas that self-illuminates them from the inside.[13]

Trisha Biggar wrote in Dressing a Galaxy: "I considered velvet,[n 7] but with some of the sections being cut on the cross,[n 8] the reversal of the velvet pile[n 9] would have been extremely obvious and ugly under film lighting. I chose instead a fine silk-satin cord,[n 10] which was mounted on a more densely woven silk prior to construction, and each panel (approximately twenty-five in the dress and fifteen in each sleeve) was self-piped."[n 11][5] The crinoline supports around the hem "allow[ed] it to skim the floor, creating a floating, gliding effect."[5] The lights above and around the hem were "in a vac-formed[n 13] Perspex,[n 14] color-washed with French enamel varnish".[n 15][5]

Further appearances[]

In Legends[]

The comic book story "A Summer's Dream" showed Amidala, then titled "Princess of Theed", with several handmaidens "fitting her with a coronation gown"—the throne room gown. The dress has many excess yards of fabric like a train (like it's a new garment being sewn for her rather than an existing piece being tailored to fit?) while the shoulders/collar goes on as-is.[15] A trading card from 2010 also depicted it as something worn for her coronation.[24]

Queen in Disguise seems to treat the throne room gown as day-to-day rather than ceremonial attire. Early in her reign, her handmaidens dress Queen Amidala in it before she has a conversation with Captain Panaka. He describes his security plan for her to disguise herself as a handmaiden while a handmaiden dresses as her. She ditches the royal garb to put on the battle dress and the story treats it as a sufficient disguise to pretend she's a handmaiden training alongside the others.[25]

In The Queen's Amulet, Padmé for some reason dressed in her throne room gown instead of practical attire to go looking for her missing amulet in a meadow outside of Theed. Immediately after returning to the palace, she learns the events of TPM have started.[26]

Apailana dressed like (or cosplayed as?) Amidala-in-throne-room-gown in a video game: (Spoilers for Star Wars: Battlefront II) When Apailana sheltered Jedi survivors and resisted Imperial control of Naboo, Darth Vader's 501st Legion assassinated her..[14] (If anybody knows why she wore that, please, do tell!)

In the New Canon[]

Prior to the film's events, Queen's Peril has scenes in which Padmé needs to wear something both formal and highly visible from starships as she stood on a platform, waving goodbye to the attendees of her Chommell sector summit. The throne room gown fit those needs, although "it wasn't exactly a dress to move quickly in, but Padmé managed, even on the steps." The handmaiden Yané modified the gown at some point; she "tweaked the outfit so that Padmé no longer required an underdress. She had just a jumpsuit on, and the dress supported itself. That made the outfit lighter and easier to move in." While it's not explicitly stated if Yané modified it before the summit or between it and its TPM outing, Amidala's thoughts on the platform include: "At least the dress was doing most of the work for her, in terms of standing up straight."[16]

In-universe artwork of Queen Amidala in her throne room gown keeps popping up, mostly on Naboo:

  • A larger-than-life statue outside her tomb[27]
  • Stained glass windows in Theed Royal Palace[28]
  • A mural in Theed that Leia Organa sees; she has the impression of it moving to look at her[29]

Leia also saw it as a statue in the gardens of the Royal Palace of Alderaan. When Leia was very young, she ran up to Breha Organa and saw the statue, prompting Breha to tell Leia a story about Padmé.[30]

Costume gallery[]

Oops![]

Although the Legends Visual Dictionary releases have the label "White thumbnail polish is the only tradition Amidala retains from her native village",[1] she has a full manicure of white nails in the film rather than just her thumbs.

On a page of Queen in Disguise with a back view of Amidala, she's missing her long styled hair and the back of her collar has an added embroidered hanging piece.[25]

De Agostini's costume feature says that "her hair was incorporated into the headpiece",[13] which doesn't fit with all the descriptions and depictions of her using wigs, including this specific headpiece having the rolled hair attached.

Are you sure there are "seven sein jewels", in-universe sources?[13] Because in reality, there are six!

Fan resources[]

Notes[]

  1. ↑ Fan-created nickname
  2. ↑ Queen's Peril overlaps with Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace, which is dated 32 BBY wherever books are sold.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion by Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis Tortora. Published 2003 by Laurence King Publishing. Third Edition; change of publisher and title from first two editions as Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion.
  4. ↑ Crinoline: "1. Stiffened petticoat intended to hold out a bouffant skirt—may be made of stiff nylon, either plain or ruffled. [...] 3. Term applied to any underskirt with hoops that support a full skirt."[n 3]
  5. ↑ Who, what, or where is Zenda in Star Wars? Well... there's a jewel of it. That's literally all there is to know canonically. No idea if that name is an intentional nod to the IRL adventure novel The Prisoner of Zenda, its many adaptations, or any other real-life things called Zenda.
  6. ↑ What is a potolli? It's a thing that sheds potolli fur, of course. Presumably that means it's some kind of animal and not, say, sweepings from a barber shop after a potolli gets their beard shaved. (Does using shed fur make it cruelty free in-universe?)
  7. ↑ Velvet: "A fabric with a short, closely woven pile created from extra lengthwise yarns. Usually the pile is cut to create a soft, rich texture, but sometimes patterns are created by cutting some of the pile yarns and not others. Used for dressy clothing and evening wear."[n 3]
  8. ↑ One definition leads to another:
    • Cross: "European term for bias, or diagonal cut — called fabric cut 'on the cross.'"
    • Bias-cut: "A technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut on the bias will hang more gracefully or a narrow dress will cling to the figure."[n 3]
  9. ↑ Pile: "Cut or uncut loops of yarns that stand erect on fabric to form all or part of the fabric surface. Either lengthwise or crosswise yarns can be used to produce this thick soft surface. May be uncut as in terry cloth or cut as in velvet, velveteen, and corduroy."[n 3]
  10. ↑ Naergi's analysis of the costume believes that term is incorrect: "It may have been SOLD as 'silk-satin cord', but the actual name of that weave is 'Bengaline'." She describes the fabric further: "As you can probably see, there are tiny 'ribs' all over the fabric, resembling grosgrain. That's, therefore, a 'ribbed' fabric, called 'Bengaline'." [...] "'Bengaline' just describes the type of weave of this kind of fabric. It can be woven from fibers like silk (which it apparently was for the movie dress), or from polyester, or rayon. But the weave itself is called Bengaline."[22]

    Or for a formal definition, Bengaline: "Heavy weight fabric characterized by large corded effect in the crosswise direction. Often made of lustrous fibers and used for more formal women’s apparel such as suits or coats, for millinery, and ribbons."[n 3]
  11. ↑ Two terms:
    • Self-covered: "Used in sewing when belts and buttons are made in fabric that matches the garment on which they are placed."
    • Piping: "A folded piece of bias binding. Piping may be inserted between two layers of fabric before stitching to create a decorative effect as, for example, in piped seams. Piped seams are similar to corded seams but have a flat rather than a rounded edge."[n 3]
  12. ↑ 12.0 12.1 12.2 Costumes & Chemistry: A Comprehensive Guide to Materials and Applications by Sylvia Moss. Published 2001 by Costume & Fashion Press.
  13. ↑ Vacuum-forming: "A method of molding a thermoplastic sheet by clamping it onto a mold, then withdrawing the air beneath it."[n 12]
  14. ↑ Perspex is a trade or brand name for acrylic: "Clear, brittle organic material formulated from acrylic acid or one of its derivatives. Available as sheeting, liquid or solvent, known as 'Lucite,' 'Plexiglas,' and 'Perspex.'"[n 12]
  15. ↑ French enamel varnish: "a transparent mixture of a binder (shellac), a thinner or solvent (usually alcohol), and pigment or alcohol-soluble dye. The shellac allows FEV to bond to most porous and nonporous surfaces. It is particularly effective for antiquing armor, accessories, jewelry, and similar pieces."[n 12]

References[]

  1. ↑ 1.00 1.01 1.02 1.03 1.04 1.05 1.06 1.07 1.08 1.09 1.10 1.11 1.12 1.13 1.14 1.15 1.16 1.17 1.18 1.19 1.20 1.21 Legends · Star Wars: Episode I: The Visual Dictionary, "Queen Amidala", by David West Reynolds. Published 1999 by DK Publishing. Content reprinted in Star Wars: The Complete Visual Dictionary (2006) and Star Wars: The Phantom Menace: The Expanded Visual Dictionary (2012)
  2. ↑ 2.00 2.01 2.02 2.03 2.04 2.05 2.06 2.07 2.08 2.09 2.10 2.11 2.12 2.13 2.14 2.15 2.16 2.17 2.18 2.19 New Canon · Star Wars: The Complete Visual Dictionary, New Edition, "The Prequel Trilogy Era" — "Queen Amidala", by Pablo Hidalgo and David West Reynolds. Published 2018 by DK Publishing.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 New Canon · Star Wars: The Visual Encyclopedia, "Culture" — "Royal Outfits", by Adam Bray, Cole Horton, and Tricia Barr. Published 2017 by DK Publishing.
  4. ↑ New Canon · Forces of Destiny: Tales of Hope & Courage. Published 2017 by Studio Fun International. Young-readers book; fictional journal of Maz Kanata.
  5. ↑ 5.00 5.01 5.02 5.03 5.04 5.05 5.06 5.07 5.08 5.09 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 5.14 Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Chapter Two: Royalty", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions.
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 Real World · "Amidala Throne Room Gown" on Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars exhibition at the FIDM Museum & Galleries. (original link down; URL was: <http://starwars.fidm.edu/exhibition/amidala-throne-room-gown.shtm>) (Archived on 2016-06-16)
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 Real World · Rebel, Jedi, Princess, Queen: Star Wars™ and the Power of Costume. Exhibited 2015–2018. Produced by the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service and the Lucas Museum of Narrative Art in consultation with Lucasfilm Ltd.

    QUEEN AMIDALA Throne Room Gown (worn 1999) Episode I: The Phantom Menace Silk, faux fur, and vacuum-formed plastic lights powered by a battery on wheels

    — Placard for costume
  8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 Real World · "Force of Fashion: Queen Amidala's Throne Room Ensemble" by Catrina Dennis on StarWars.com. Published 2016-06-08. (original link down; URL was: <https://www.starwars.com/news/force-of-fashion-queen-amidalas-throne-room-ensemble>) (Archived on 2021-10-25)
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 Real World · The Art of Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace, "From Sketch to Screen", by Jonathan Bresman. Published 1999 by Del Rey.
  10. ↑ Real World · Star Wars Chronicles: The Prequels, Chapter 1, "Episode I: The Phantom Menace", by Stephen J. Sansweet and Pablo Hidalgo. Published 2005 by Chronicle Books.
  11. ↑ Real World · Star Wars Insider, issue #223, "Hutt Couture", by James Floyd. Published December 2023.
  12. ↑ Legends · Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace by Terry Brooks. Published 1999 by Del Rey. Film novelization
  13. ↑ 13.00 13.01 13.02 13.03 13.04 13.05 13.06 13.07 13.08 13.09 13.10 From both continuities:
    • Legends · The Official Star Wars Fact File, Issue 104, Weapons & Technology: Garments and couture (GAR7) — "Naboo Royal Costume". Published 2004 by De Agostini (original series). Content reprinted in the 2014 relaunch Part 29, "As Befits a Queen" (GAR1-2).
    • New Canon · Padmé Amidala in the series Star Wars Encyclopedia. Published 2021 by De Agostini. Content reprinted from Fact File (note: exact words/phrases may or may not be present in each specific translation into English, Spanish, and/or French).
  14. ↑ 14.0 14.1 Legends · Star Wars: Battlefront II, "Naboo - Imperial Diplomacy" (Galactic Empire campaign mission). Developed by Pandemic Studios and released in 2005. (not that Star Wars Battlefront II from 2017)
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 Legends · Star Wars Tales, issue #5, "A Summer's Dream", by Terry Moore. Published 2000 by Dark Horse Comics.
  16. ↑ 16.0 16.1 16.2 16.3 New Canon · Queen's Peril by E. K. Johnston in the series Queen's Series. Published 2020 by Disney • Lucasfilm Press.
  17. ↑ 17.0 17.1 17.2 Real World · Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars, "Headdresses", by Trisha Biggar. Published 2005 by Insight Editions. Booklet exclusive to Limited Edition.
  18. ↑ 18.0 18.1 18.2 Real World · "'All Films Are Personal': An Oral History of Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace" by Dan Brooks on StarWars.com. Published 2019-05-24. (Archived on 2023-12-16)
  19. ↑ Real World · The Art of Star Wars: Episode I The Phantom Menace, "Naboo: The City of Theed", by Jonathan Bresman. Published 1999 by Del Rey.
  20. ↑ Real World · "Production Notes: Costume Design" on StarWars.com — Episode I. Published 1999-05-01. (original link down; URL was: <http://www.starwars.com/episode-i/features/production/costume.html>) (Archived on 2001-02-10)
  21. ↑ Real World · "The Amazing Stories, Art, and History Found in 'Star Wars and the Power of Costume'" by Kristin Baver on StarWars.com. Published 2016-10-27. "Some look a tad bit uncomfortable -- one gown actually calls for the wearer to straddle a car battery to illuminate a series of globes at its rigid base [...]" (Archived on 2024-03-29)
  22. ↑ 22.0 22.1 Fansite · "Queen Amidala – Red Invasion / Theed Throne Room Robe – Analysis" by Naergi on Naergi's Costuming Site. Published 2012-05-25. (Archived on 2024-02-07)
  23. ↑ Legends · Star Wars Episode I: I Am a Queen by Alice Alfonsi. Published 2000 by Random House.
  24. ↑ Legends · 2010 Topps Star Wars Galaxy Series 5, "The New Queen's Fitting"
  25. ↑ 25.0 25.1 Legends · Queen in Disguise by Monica Kulling. Published 2000 by Random House. Illustrated by John Alvin
  26. ↑ Legends · The Queen's Amulet by Julianne Balmain. Published 1999 by Chronicle Books. Illustrated by Matilda Harrison
  27. ↑ New Canon · Darth Vader (2020), issue #4, "Dark Heart of the Sith Part IV", by Greg Pak. Published 2020.
  28. ↑ New Canon · Star Wars Battlefront II, "Theed map (Clone Wars) and Royalty mission (Galactic Civil War)". Developed by DICE and released in 2017. (yes that Star Wars Battlefront II)
  29. ↑ New Canon · Princess Leia, issue #2 by Mark Waid. Published 2015. Miniseries
  30. ↑ New Canon · Star Wars Adventures, Annual 2019, "So Much More", by Pierrick Colinet and Elsa Charretier. Published 2019 by IDW Publishing.
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